Constraint and release, twist and gather, materiality and proportions. Subtle, meaningful details. Masculine, feminine, both and neither.
Embodying this perpetual interplay, the collection captures the dynamic tension between push and pull through an exploration of tailoring and fabric manipulation.
Crinkled georgette shirts, scrunched organza tops. The signature slits on tailoring. Relaxed single-breasted jackets, pinched. What was once loose gets pulled, what was pinched gets released. Double pleat trousers are gathered at the hips, the hem cuffs on single pleat trousers are left asymmetrically dropped.
Tailoring stitches are applied beyond the conventional, with darts and pleats creating shapes that twist and gather. Chest slits that were once open are now delicately closed with contrast waxed thread. Hand-embroidered cross stitches cinch the waists of tailored jackets. A juxtaposition of fitted and relaxed silhouettes demonstrates the constant push and pull. fluid linen, lightweight cotton drill, upcycled polyester, sheer silk, georgette and organza, fine wool twill.
Taupe, olive green, earthy-toned stripes. Colour block ivory, deep black and a hand-dyed in-between. Burnt orange.
Accessories as intimate troves of trinkets and souvenirs. Razor clams, logo-engraved metal hardware, leather cords. De-contextualized ashtray parts as tinware jewellery. Thin lightweight scarves.
Each piece is an exploration of the balance of tension and release.