Antonio Viéitez, creative director of ANTONIO MARCIAL, is born in 1993 in Talavera de la Reina, Toledo. I initially studied Fine Arts in Madrid, which helped me develop my artistic eye and taught me about constructing projects and concepts. It is thanks to this background that art becomes one of my main sources of inspiration in fashion. After finishing my studies I decided to continue my education, this time oriented towards the fashion industry. I was accepted into the Fashion Design MA course at Ravensbourne University, London, where I learned and developed my knowledge and sewing skills. After finishing the master's degree I return to Spain and, in Madrid, begin working as a dressmaker and assistant designer for Santiago Bandrés. During this time, from the inside, I learn about the fashion business, about fabrics and hand and custom sewing. I improve and start to germinate the idea and concept of my own brand. It was in the summer of 2020 that I finally created ANTONIO MARCIAL. During the Covid 19 pandemic, in confinement, I lay the foundation, the basic concepts and the philosophy of the firm. I start working on the first collection, Fresh and Bloody; and design, cut and begin sewing the first pieces. ANTONIO MARCIAL is established as the project that I have wanted to develop for years as a fashion designer and I get the first customers requesting bespoke pieces. Shortly after establishing the company it begins to appear in national and international publications. With the help of the press agency NNPress Comunicación, ANTONIO MARCIAL attains greater visibility and begins to establish a brand image.
26 abril 2021
Collection_Fresh and Bloody
Fresh and Bloody is a genderless fashion collection that speaks about art, pain, wounds and scars in an optimistic, reaffirming manner. The collection’s name is derived from all the feelings I pour into it and the open wounds that many of us share but are ashamed to reveal, and so hide from others. Wounds on the skin, internal wounds, wounds that can't be seen but hurt just the same. In this collection I speak about ceasing to hide them, about accepting them, healing them. I cry out as a way to stop feeling ashamed. I speak about not being afraid and being afraid, about sadness and happiness, about love and care for oneself, about self-acceptance and renewal.
Fresh and Bloody is also about gender and identity. With each garment I deconstruct the codes that define gender in fashion: silhouettes, lines, materials, colours. All these elements help me go a step further, to establish new codes only to break them again, to redefine what gender is and what it is not, and to start anew. In short, it is a collection about the reality of all of us. Realities that can be painful but that can be healed.
Inspiration: For this collection I have been inspired by the fashion and suits of the 90s. Wide silhouettes and shoulder pads are combined with sexier lines and tighter garments. Lightweight fabrics coexist with denim - which evolves into something elegant and ground-breaking - and combine with knitwear, which is still present on the catwalks and which dares to introduce new forms and patterns. Shoulder pads for women's and men's garments alike, wide jackets and oversize trousers. In Fresh and Bloody I work with and combine all these elements; elements that defined gender in 90s fashion, although one could already perceive certain boundaries becoming blurred. Designers and catwalks exhibit traditionally masculine silhouettes on models like Naomi Campbell. Colours and materials usually reserved for men's tailoring are used for women's patterns. At the same time, the queer community fights for their rights, claims their identity and raises their voice to claim the existence of other realities. The definition of masculine and feminine changes, and, where fashion is concerned, although still very marked, the definition begins to include elements appropriate to the opposite gender. Another source of inspiration has been the artistic work of Lorna Simpson, her photographic series being the conceptual basis and first visual inspiration for Fresh and Bloody. Her work on the perception of African-American women in American society and her work as a feminist artist were the seeds that defined the history of Fresh and Bloody.
Fabrics: The selection of fabrics for the collection is inspired by the fashion of the 1990s and the concept of genderless fashion. Where tailoring is concerned the fabric selection includes full-bodied cotton yarn fabrics that are perfect for suits, while for shirting, preference is given to lightweight cotton and poplin fabrics. Cotton and polyester knitted fabrics are combined with these more elegant fabrics to create new silhouettes and deconstruct patterns, while denim, although its quality may clash with that of previously mentioned fabrics, coexists and helps mould the concept of the collection.
With the aim of continuing to deconstruct the codes that define gender in fashion, the colour palette features powdered, pastel, soft tones that evoke both feminine and masculine concepts. These light colours also construct a new concept of masculinity. Both the quality of the fabrics and the colour palette speak of wounds and scars, the essential concept of the collection. Knitwear and poplin offer the possibility of creating rips and tight silhouettes that are inspired by the skin. And finally, the colour palette is designed to match a variety skin tones that are both warm and flattering.