Exposition Boris Bidjan Saberi


“The place in which ideas are born is also the space in which extreme experimentations give the skin the consistency of bone, that transforms the blood in pigment, that metallize the leather, that aims to substitute the stitches with adhesive and glue. (...) We are in front of a true underground “monstrosity”, of a desire of redesigning the human forms, very long or sharp, that in nature do not exist.” cit. Paolo Ferrarini. 

The main focus of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s quest is always the human body, to be empowered and protected as if strengthen by additional layers. Scrutinized, dissected and remolded, the human silhouette, in Saberi’s perspective, blends floating shapes with anatomical geometries. Nonetheless, organic materials such as leather, felt and cotton coexist in the administration of inorganic elements like vinyl and tar. 

As a designer, subject to fashion weeks calendar, Saberi has submitted himself to a continuous anatomical investigation, taking the form of seasonal collections which one after another never ceased questioning the body and its inherent properties. While following cyclic creative investigations – commonly known as Spring summer and Fall winter cycles – Saberi invents his own radical approach stepping on the toes of an alchemist. 

By the use of re-explored artesanal technics, the designer sets up the nature of his position towards the matter and the garments he carves out, a crucial physicality involving his own hands and the raw material into dynamic forces. Leathers, leading Saberi's substances for manifest plastic qualities, compound malleable surfaces close to the human skin. Such surfaces which, investigated through additive or subtractive schemes, expand their organic properties. A primitive experience which makes one consider the matter through a deeper perspective, not only does it get a texture but also a hue, a smell, a sound that give the garment a substantive aura. 

Boris Bidjan Saberi's philosophy, incidentally claimed on all clothing labels, is feeling the garment as a protection, a second skin that gives you strength. A shielding potential that one may experience by wearing them. The garments have an indubitable physicality, each sculpted by Saberi's hands and body, carrying the marks of numerous confection procedures and by then exposing their corporeal qualities. May those armors also strengthen in a certain way, one's spiritual potency ? It may be the original and personal quest of Saberi's investigations. 

The 11 selected pieces of work are meant to shed light on a global questioning and a radical positioning among the fashion scene. Some of the chosen pieces have kept their initial status, shaped to be worn and commercialized, others drawn nearer to sculptural assemblies have taken a new symbolic form ensuring the sustainability of a life long research on material properties and anatomical pattern exploration.